This itinerary closely follows the itinerary my family and I followed while in Paris last week. I hope it helps guide you through a beautiful vacation in Paris as it did for me.
Before embarking upon your Paris explorations, wear comfortable walking shoes! Following this itinerary most days we walked at least 7-9 miles. While always magical, Paris (understandably) loses some of its allure when your feet hurt. Even most Parisians wear comfortable shoes to walk its city streets! If you want to blend in, pick up a pair of Parisian-chic tennis shoes once you arrive.
Day 1:
Luxembourg Garden: This sprawling park is my favorite in Paris. Its grassy areas simply glow (particularly in the spring and early fall). It’s a popular running spot, so if you want to fit in a morning run without dodging cars or dog poop, make your way over to the path just inside the gates and follow the ~2.5 km outer loop as many times as your heart desires.
Poilâne: This local boulangerie (bread bakery) looks unassuming. Walk in and your senses will be overwhelmed by the sweet scent of caramel. Lining the walls are thick, crusty loaves carved with “P” for their namesake. We picked up a chausson de pomme, which is similar to an apple tart pocket. Though I normally pass over apple desserts for all things chocolate, the still-tart apples blended seamlessly with the pastry dough and the magnificent concoction melted in my mouth. (Credit to finding this magical boulangerie goes to Ina Garten, who listed the locale as her favorite in all Paris.)
Le Cherche Midi: Go for the warm decor and wafting cheese aroma spreading onto the facing street, leave having eaten the most delicious and al dente pasta. I got the rigatoni with pesto sauce (as pesto sauce/basil/pine nuts are impossible to come by).
Maison du Chocolat: This “House of Chocolate” serves up some of Paris’ best chocolate. Make sure to stop by one of their locations and sample their gourmet truffles. I recommend the raspberry dark chocolate. If you’re feeling adventurous, try one of their caviar-infused confections.
Elbé: “Vintage poster shop” does not do justice to the works of art that this small shop on Boulevard Saint-Germain sells. Walk in and browse these museum-quality works of art and chat with the proprietor. He speaks French and English fluently and can tell you about his search process for these rare works of art. Many of them are one-of-a-kind and worth their sticker price. To see some of the featured works, check out this gorgeous art book.
Angelina: Loop back to the Luxembourg Garden to rest at the lesser-known location of this Parisian classic tea house, Angelina. Angelina sells the MOST INCREDIBLE hot chocolate I have ever consumed. Prepare to have all hot chocolate henceforth ruined for you. (PSA: If you do not like intense chocolate drinks, this is not a drink for you.)
Rue St. Jacques: The two-block portion of Rue St. Jacques south of Rue Sufflot is too convenient for words. As you are likely exhausted from your first day of explorations, stop by the boulangerie, charcuterie (butcher), and fromagerie (cheese-ry). They sit nestled one next to the other for your evening picnic-ing pleasure. When in doubt – or when overwhelmed by the sheer variety of cheese available – ask the proprietor what cheese they would recommend. They are the experts and will not lead you astray. If you’re hesitant, you can always request a sample, but make sure you ultimately buy something. I recommend compté. It’s my favorite cheese-of-the-moment.
Day 2:
Musée Marmottan: If you love the paintings of Claude Monet as much as I do, trek up to the 16th arrondissement to visit the largest collection of Monet pieces in the world. This museum, founded by Monet’s last living descendant, has some of Monet’s most acclaimed Impressionist and post-Impressionist works as well as items from his personal collection. The museum itself is situated next to a stunning and peaceful park which you will walk through on your way to and from the metro.
Notre Dame: Take the RER C metro back to the very heart of Paris. Get off on the Notre-Dame stop. Once you emerge from the Metro Notre Dame (one of Paris’ most distinctive landmarks) will be hard to miss! The line to get inside may initially deter you, but I promise that it moves quickly. And the line will give you the opportunity to take your time and admire the stunning architecture that is Notre Dame. Once inside, you should take your time gazing upon the stunning stain glass windows that line the thick stone walls of the cathedral.
Île Saint Louis: Paris’ highest-cost real estate provides the best opportunity to window shop and imagine living in one of its high-windowed and light-flooded apartments. I certainly did. If you like ice cream, Berthillon serves the most delicious ice cream in Paris. I highly recommend the salty caramel and dark chocolate flavors, which are conveniently also my favorite flavors from Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams in my hometown.
The Banks of the Seine: Take the northern bridge away from Île Saint Louis and cross the river Seine. Turn to the east and descend the stairs to walk along the banks of the river. On a beautiful sunny weekend day the river banks will be filled with happy Parisians and tourists. Read a book or people watch and soak in the rays of sunshine while enjoying a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Place des Vosges: Nestled in the Marais this 17th-century square provides a welcome architectural change. With its red-brick facades and verdant green areas, Place des Vosges attracts lots of adorable French families (no photos, I have not reached that level of creeptastic). For a quiet, hidden spot off the main square, find Hotel de Sully, an ornate 17th century private mansion that has its own small, walled garden.
Le Petit Sommelier: This restaurant, whose name means “the little wine steward”, serves the most delicious, hearty French classics alongside a stunning wine collection. I am no wine expert, but the waiters at Le Petit Sommelier are. You choose the food (I recommend the beef bourguignon and the steak tartare aller-retour) and let them choose the wine. Or, in my case, go with a friend who is training to be an expert sommelier and have her choose the wine.
Day 3:
Marché Raspail: Each Sunday this local market takes place just south of the Luxembourg Garden on Boulevard Raspail. Walk the length of the market, feasting with your eyes on the vibrant vegetables, flowers, artisan breads and cheeses, and handicrafts. Then, turn around, do a second loop, and buy breakfast or your next picnic lunch. Local markets like these are integral parts of the Parisian experience, and they allow locals to shop for local and in-season produce all year.
Montmartre: Take the metro all the way to Les Abbesses. After a quick stop by the Mur des je t’aime (the I Love You Wall), meander your way up the winding, hilly streets of Montmartre. Peruse the artwork displayed in the square at the top of the hill and gaze out at the city from the Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) basilica.
Canal Saint Martin: Another short metro ride will take you to Canal Saint Martin. We continued to have beautiful weather, and the cafes and sidewalks were filled with locals enjoying their first warm, spring day alongside the sparkling waters of the canal. After all this walking and stair-climbing you are likely hungry. For delicious Indian food served in a modern, laid-back environment, try Marcel. If you order nothing else, make sure to get the mango lassi and the cheese naan (a French take on the North Indian classic).
Jacques Genin: Though “only” around since 2008, Jacques Genin creates the most delicious chocolates and caramels that I have ever tasted. Their Marais location contains both the chocolate/caramel boutique and a cafe with hot chocolate and other sweet confections.
Les Enfants Rouges: This market (named for the orphanage that once stood here and its red-clad orphans) is a covered indoor market, which combines to-order food spots with a traditional farmers market. If you’re hoping for a night in, pick up dinner from the market before it closes around 7:30 pm (*N.B. Closed on Sundays)
Day 4:
Rue Moufftard: This street is lined with shops and restaurants. Near Ecole Nationale Superieure (France’s elite university) this market street fills with students each Saturday and Sunday morning.
Hotel des Grandes Ecoles: Tucked away on a side street leading off Rue Moufftard, this boutique hotel contains a small, flower-filled courtyard. If you like finding the quiet within big cities, step into the breath of fresh air that is the Hotel des Grandes Ecoles.
Jardin des Plantes: Next to the Mosque of Paris (this unmistakable landmark will help you find your way), the Garden of Plants provides acres of greenery and extensive walking trails.
Rue Crémieux: Cross the Seine by walking north from the gardens and reach this pastel-colored street, which is surrounded by the gray modern streets of the streets near Gare de Lyon.
Pierre Hermé: Just in case you have not consumed enough chocolate, stop by this gourmet chocolatier and choose any of their decadent treats.
Day 5:
Musée d’Orsay: Inside a former train station, the Musée d’Orsay holds thousands of pieces of art and sculpture from the 19th century. Until June 2017 the museum will display an incredible exhibit named Au-delà des étoiles (Beyond the Stars).
Passage Dauphine: 10 minutes from the Musée d’Orsay the Passage Dauphine hides a cozy tea spot called L’Heure Gourmand (the gourmet hour). Slip into this passageway for tea and delicious raspberry cobbler.
Shakespeare and Co.: Paris’ favorite English bookstore is situated across the Seine from Notre Dame. This independent bookstore supports aspiring writers and stocks an inspiring collection of books that made me want to buy every book in sight.
St. Chapelle: The always-gorgeous St. Chapelle holds weekend classical music concerts. If you can, attend a concert when the sky remains light after 8 pm. The stained glass windows glow in the late evening light and are my absolute favorite spot in all of Paris
Eiffel Tower: Wrap up your adventures in Paris with a view of the Eiffel tower as it sparkles at night. While cliché, this iconic Paris landmark still never fails to stun. It sparkles each hour on the hour after the sun sets and until 12 am. Let this serve as a perfect bookend on the perfect Paris vacation.
Happy adventuring! Bon courage!
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